Want to know more?

Have you read something here that you don’t fully understand. are you looking at getting in to the tough world of professional video production? Need to improve you green screen or chroma key skills. I’m running a range of workshops for all skill levels in Austin, Texas next week at Omega Broadcast. Click here for more details.

If you can’t get to Austin, how about Toronto Canada. I’m working with Vistek Toronto and will be holding workshops at SIRT Pinewood Studios on the 12 and 13th of December. Click here for full details.

Come and join me. I’m really good at teaching stuff that can be difficult to get your head around in a straight forward way.

Understanding Log and Exposure Levels (also other gammas). PLEASE READ and understand.

Please, please read this and try to understand how shooting with a high range gamma curve such as a cinegamma or hypergamma or log recording works. The principles are not well understood by many, even highly experienced DP’s and DIT’s get this so horribly wrong.

Why do so many get it all wrong? Because we are brought up used to looking at a monitor or viewfinder and seeing a picture that looks correct.

Why doesn’t the picture look right when we shoot log (or other extended range gamma)? It’s simply because the monitor does not have the right gamma curve (unless you have a log monitor), so there is a miss-match between the camera and monitor.

So what does this mean? DO NOT USE THE MONITOR TO JUDGE YOUR EXPOSURE unless you have a well calibrated Look Up Table between the camera and monitor!

For many people this takes a huge leap of faith. To shoot with a picture that looks wrong goes against everything most camera people are taught. Directors and producers will look at the monitor and not like what they see, perhaps encouraging you to adjust your exposure, because it looks wrong. In the end many give in and instead of exposing the Log or other gamma correctly they will adjust the exposure to something they are more comfortable with, something that is a bit brighter. But this is a mistake, an easy one to make but one that may mean your pictures just won’t look as good as they should. Please see this article on exposure with extended range gamma curves.

Some more things to consider before I go further:

Most TV and film production monitors are based on the REC-709 standard. The input into these monitors will normally be digital, either HDSDI or HDMI.

A digital signal contains a range of data values. For 10 bit video we have a total range of data bits from 0 to 1023. Our monitor will show data bit 64 as black (the values below this used for super blacks and sync) and data bit 1019 will make the monitor show the brightest level that it can. Normally data bit 940 is considered “white” and anything above this is brighter than white. It may be 8 bit not 10 bit, 8 bit uses values from 0 to 255. For this article I will use 10 bit values, but the principles are exactly the same whether 10 bit or 8 bit. Also I’m only considering brightness here, not colour.

A typical LCD monitor or TV set has a very limited contrast range and can only display about a 6 or 7 stop dynamic range. OLED’s are a bit better.

Thanks to the Rec-709 gamma curve in the monitor, when we send data bit 940 to the monitor we see what appears to be white. Send bit 64 and we see black, send bit 440 (approx) and we see a shade of grey that appears to be half way between black and white, also known as middle grey.

Middle grey is approx 2.5 stops darker than white (as in a piece of white paper or similar) and if we go around 2.5 stops darker than middle grey we will see something very close to black. So we can see that using bits 64 to 940 we will get around a 5 stop dynamic range on the monitor with a bit of extra range from bit 940 to 1019, so overall there’s our typical 6 stop monitor range.

Now, what happens then if we have a camera with a much greater dynamic range than 6 stops? Well, the monitor can never show the cameras bigger range accurately as it can only ever show 6 stops, if we feed say 14 stops into the monitor the brightness range on the monitor will still only be 6 stops. So now the contrast of the picture is reduced as we are squeezing the cameras large contrast range into the monitors much smaller contrast range.

Now lets consider the camera.

Lets consider a Rec-709 camera. If I shoot a white card, I record it using bit 940, if I shoot a grey card I record it using bit 440, that way the white card looks white and the grey card looks grey on my monitor which uses those same levels for those same shades, then I have a little bit of extra space above 940 for a little extra dynamic range. Remember, near black to white is approx 5 stops of dynamic range.

But what if I want to extend my range beyond 5 stops? If white is bit 940 and my top limit is bit 1019, I really don’t have a lot of data space to record a load of extra range, so I have to do something else.

What do the camera manufacturers do to record a bigger dynamic range? They shift the data values used down. Taking SLog2 as an example, instead of using bit value 940 to represent white, they now use bit 600 (approx) and for middle grey, instead of bit 440 we now use bit 347. This now gives us a large amount of spare data from bit 600 to 1019 to record a greatly extended range beyond our original 5 stops.

This shift downwards of our data levels does not just happen with log recording it also happens when you use almost any non-standard gamma curve. For example Sony’s Hypergammas and Cinegammas also lower the bit value for white down to between bit 700 and 800 and middle grey can go as low as bit 320 (depending on the curve used). Again this then frees off extra data above bit 800 to extend the dynamic range beyond our Rec-709 6 stops.

But this now gives us a problem. If I am using SLog2 and expose CORRECTLY and as a result record middle grey at bit 347 (32%), when I send bit 347 to my Rec-709 monitor it will look dark because a rec-709 monitor will show bit 347 as darker than bit 440 so darker than the normal middle grey displayed by the monitor.

It’s very, very important to understand that just because the picture looks dark, you are NOT under exposed in any way. It is just the miss-match between the camera an monitor that is making the picture LOOK dark. IT IS THE MONITOR THAT IS WRONG NOT YOUR EXPOSURE.

Now the next common mistake is the thought that: “OK, my picture looks dark, so when I take it in to post production and raise the levels, it’s going to get noisy”. Well, this is to small degree true but it is not nearly as bad as many assume. The reason it’s not as bad as many assume is that you must remember that YOU WERE CORRECTLY EXPOSED. You are not trying to lift an under-exposed image. Remember what I said at the beginning: “The noise in a digital camera comes almost entirely from the sensor”.

So, with the same camera, if we expose any given gamma correctly then as the amount of light falling on the sensor is the same, the ratio of sensor noise to signal coming from the sensor does not change. So taking a face as an example, exposed correctly (ie. with middle grey at the correct level for the gamma curve in use) the amount of noise on that face will remain constant across all the different gamma curves. Do note however that some cameras may have different ISO ratings for different gammas and this might have a small impact on noise levels (but that’s the subject for a different article).

Now consider what happens when we go into the edit suite. If the gamma you are shooting with is quite close to the gamma curve of your target display device, which in most cases will be Rec-709 for TV or the Web. Then a small level change in post will bring middle grey and your whites up to the level the monitor is expecting and won’t add any significant noise, after all we are working with digital images and digital processing and don’t forget – you were not underexposed, just using different data bits to represent different brightness levels.

But what about a more aggressive gamma curve like SLog2 or any other log gamma. This is going to need some big level changes, surely this is going to get noisy. Again, no, not if you handle it correctly. You really should be using a dedicated grading tool for any log material as this will apply corrections that are designed for log and this will minimise any added noise. But the other thing to consider is that this is where you should be using a LUT or Look Up Table on your output to convert you data values from Log values to Rec-709 values.

By placing a LUT on the output of your project you shift your data levels from one range to another. Your grading is done to the original material in it’s original range so that you can retain that full range and then your LUT is used at the end of your grade (on the last node) to then convert your data values from log values to 709 values. When you do this you are simply moving your data values. So if the original input value for a part of the image is is bit 347, SLog2 middle grey for example. On your output you just use bit value 440 (709 middle grey) instead. Your just transposing data from one range to another and this does not add noise in the same way as adding gain does.

Now, looking at Log and the way it works. You should note that in order to squeeze 14 stops of dynamic range into our normal recording codec you use a lot of compression in the brighter stops. Remember, every time you add a stop of exposure, to record everything in that additional stop you should be recording the new stop with twice as much data as the previous. But that’s impossible with conventional recording, the amount of data required is simply too big. So log records every stop using roughly the same amount of data. This means that the brighter stops are very highly compressed, so it’s very important not to over expose log to get the best results.

So in summary: When you shoot and expose correctly with a gamma curve with a large dynamic range (cinegamma, hypergamma, log etc) it will look darker on your conventional monitor or viewfinder. That is how it should be, that is correct exposure, you are not underexposed, so the picture will not be noisy. The dark looking picture is because your monitor gamma does not match the cameras, it is the monitor that is wrong, not your exposure. The picture will not be noisier than any other correctly exposed picture, even though it looks dark because of the monitor miss-match. So have the confidence to shoot with these slightly dark looking images. Especially if your shooting log where over exposure can seriously compromise your end results.

Alphatron ProPull mini follow focus.

Alphatron MiniPull follow focus.
Alphatron MiniPull follow focus.

Over the years I’ve used many different follow focus units. Some better than others, but the majority of them a similar size. I recently got one of the new compact Alphatron Pro-Pull follow focusses to play with. The first and most obvious thing about the Pro-Pull is it’s size. It is very compact. At first I thought this might be an issue as the smaller knob requires more effort to turn than a more conventional larger knob, but in reality it’s not a problem. If you need more torque you can use either a whip or slot in hand grip.

IMG_1724
MiniPull on an F5 working with a Samyang/Rokinon Cine lens.

The Mini-Pull has some really cool features. For a start you can reverse the focus direction by swapping the gear drive from one side of the unit to the other. But the one I really like is the adjustable, locking end stops. This makes it really easy to pull focus from one distance to another. You simply set the stops at your near and far focus positions and then turn the focus wheel between the two stops. If you then need to focus beyond the end stops you simply flip up the latching stop pin and you can focus beyond the end stops. Want to return back to the end stops then simply flip the stop pin back down again. Very clever, very simple and very effective.

The focus marking ring is magnetic so if you need to change or replace this it pulls off easily, yet is very secure when in place. The MiniPull is attached using a simple bracket that attaches to a single 15mm rail. This makes it very easy to adjust the MiniPulls position if your changing lenses and going between different sized lenses. This bracket also makes the MiniPull very compact, which for me as a very frequent traveller is a real bonus.

I used the MiniPull extensively on my recent shoot for the short film “Inviolate” to easily execute a large number of focus pulls. I rate it very highly if you need a compact and easy to use follow focus. It’s supplied with everything you need to get going including a nice flexible lens gear ring and the screw driver needed to attach it. Also included as well as the 0.8 pitch gear drive is a drive wheel with a rubber edge that can be used with lenses without a pitch gear.

What’s the difference between Latitude and Dynamic Range?

These two words, latitude and dynamic range are often confused and are often used interchangeably.  Sometimes they can be the same thing (although rare), sometimes they may be completely different. So what is the difference and why do you have to be careful to use the right term.

Lets start with dynamic range as this is the simplest to understand. When talking about a digital camera the dynamic range is quite simply the total range from the darkest shadow to the brightest highlight that the camera can resolve in a single shot. To be included in the dynamic range you must be able to discern visually or measure with a scope a brightness change at both ends of the range. So a camera that can resolve 14 stops will be able to shoot a scene with a 14 stop brightness range and show some information from stop 0 to stop 14. It is not just a measure of the cameras highlight handling, it includes both highlights and shadows. One camera may be very low noise, so see very far into the shadows but not be so good with highlights. While another may be noisy, so not able to see so far into the shadows but have excellent highlight handling. Despite these differences both might have the same dynamic range as it is the range we are looking at, not just one end or the other.

One note of caution with published dynamic range figures or measurements is that while you may be able to discern some picture information in those deepest shadows or brightest highlights, just how useable both ends of the range are will depend on just how the camera performs at it’s extremes. It is not uncommon for the darkest stop to be so close to the cameras noise floor that in reality it’s barely useable, but as it can be measured it will be included in the manufacturers dynamic range figures.

This brings us on to latitude because latitude is a measure of just how flexible you can be with your exposure without significantly compromising the finished picture. The latitude will always be less than the cameras dynamic range. With a film camera, the film stock would have a sensitivity value or ISO. You would then use an exposure meter to determine the optimum exposure. The latitude would then be how much can you over expose or under expose and still have an acceptable result. But what is “an acceptable result”? Here is one of the key problems with determining latitude, what some people may find unacceptable others may be happy with so it can be difficult to quantify the exact latitude of a film stock or video camera precisely. However what you can do is determine which cameras have bigger ranges for example camera “A” has a stop more latitude than camera “B” provide you use a consistent “acceptable quality” assesment.

Anyone that’s shot with a traditional ENG or home video camera will know that you really need to get your exposure right to get a decent looking picture. Take a simple interview shot, expose it right and it looks fine. Overexpose by 1 stop and it looks bad, even if you try to grade it it will still look bad. So in this example the camera would have less than 1 stop of over exposure latitude. But if you underexpose a video camera, the picture gets darker, but after a bit of work in post production it may well still look OK. It will depend in most cases on how noisy the picture becomes when you boost the levels in post to brighten the picture. But typically you might be able to go 1 to 1.5 stops under exposed and still have a useable image. So in this case the camera would have 1.5 stops of underexposure latitude. This then gives a total latitude for our hypothetical camera of around 2 to 2.5 stops.

But what of we increase the dynamic range of the camera or have a camera with a very big dynamic range. Does my latitude increase?

Well the answer is maybe. In some cases the latitude may actually decrease. How can that be possible, surely with a bigger dynamic range my latitude must be greater?

Well, unless your shooting linear raw (more on that in a bit) you will be using some kind of gamma curve. The gamma curve is there to allow you to squeeze a large dynamic range into a small amount of data. It does this by mimicking the way we perceive light in a non linear manner and uses less data in highlights which are perceptually less important to us humans. Even uncompressed video normally has a gamma curve. Without a gamma curve the amount of data needed to record a decent looking picture would be huge as every additional stop of dynamic range actually needs twice as much data as the previous to be recorded faithfully.

With cameras with larger dynamic ranges then things such as knee compression or special gamma curves like Hypergamma, Cinegamma or Log are used. The critical thing with all of these is that the only way to squeeze that greater dynamic range into the same size recording bucket is by adding extra compression to the recorded image.

exposure1This compression is normally restricted to the highlights (which are perceptually less important). Highlight compression now presents us with an exposure problem, because if we over expose the shot then the picture won’t look good due to the compression. This means that even though we might have increased the cameras dynamic range (by squeezing and compressing more information into the highlight range) we may have reduced the exposure latitude as any over exposure places important mid range information into the highly compressed part of the gamma curve. So bigger dynamic range does not mean greater latitude, in fact in many cases it means less latitude.

Here’s the thing. Unless you make the recording data bucket significantly bigger (better codec and more bits, 10 bit 12 bit etc), you can’t put more data (dynamic range or stops) into that bucket without it overflowing or without squashing it. Given that most cameras used fixed 8 bit or 10 bit recording there is a finite limit to what can be squeezed into the codec without making some pretty big compromises.

Compression point with Hypergamma/Cinegamma.
Compression point with Hypergamma/Cinegamma.

With a standard gamma curve white is exposed around 90% to 95%, remember a white card only reflects 90% of the light falling on it not 100%. Middle grey perceptually appears half way between black and white so it’s around 40%-45%. Above 90% is where the knee normally acts to compress highlights to squeeze quite a large dynamic range into a very small recording range, so anything above 90% will be very highly compressed, but below 90% we are OK and we can safely use the full range up to 90%. Expose a face below 90% and it will look natural, above 90% it will look washed out, low contrast and generally nasty due to the squeezing together of the contrast and dynamic range.

But what about a Hypergamma or Cinegamma (or any other high dynamic range gamma curve)? Well these don’t have a knee, instead they start to gradually introduce compression much lower down the gamma curve. A little bit at first and then ever increasing amounts as we go up the exposure range. This allows them to squeeze in a much greater dynamic range in a pleasing way (provided you expose right). But this means that we can’t afford to let faces etc go as high as with the standard gamma because if we do they will start to creep in to the highly compressed part of the curve. So this means that even the slightest over exposure will hurt our image.  So even thought they have greater dynamic range, these curves have less exposure latitude because we really really can’t afford to over expose them. Sony compensate for this to some degree by recommending a lower middle grey point between 32 and 40% depending on the curve you use. This then brings your overall exposure lower so your less likely to over expose, but that now means you have less under exposure range as your already shooting a bit darker (White with the hypergammas tends to fall lower, around 80%, so faces and skin tones that would normally be around 70% will be around 60%).

More highlight compression means exposure is still critical despite greater dynamic range
More highlight compression means exposure is still critical despite greater dynamic range

But what about Log?

Now lets look at S-Log2, S-log3. Most  log curves are also similar, very highly compressed gamma curves with huge amounts of highlight compression to squeeze in an exceptionally large dynamic range. With Slog2 White is designed to be at 59% and middle grey at 32% and with S-log3 middle grey is 41% and white 61%. So faces will need to sit between around 40% and 50% to look their best. Now log is a little bit different. Log shooting is designed to be done in conjunction with LUT’s (Look Up Tables) in post production. These LUT’s convert the signal from Log gamma to conventional gamma. When you apply the correct LUT to correctly exposed Log everything comes out looking good. What about over exposed Log? This is where it can get tricky. If you have a good exposure correction LUT or really know how to grade log properly (which can be tricky) then you can expose Log by one or 2 stops, but no more (in my opinion at least, 2 stops is a lot of over exposure for Log, I would try to stay less than 2 stops over). Over expose too much and the image gets really hard to grade and may start to lack contrast. One thing to note is when I say over-exposed with respect to log, I’m not talking about about a clipped picture, but simply an image much brighter than it should be. For example with Slog3 faces will be around 52%. If you expose faces at 70% your actually just over 2 stops over exposed and grading is going to start to get tricky and you may find it hard to get your skin tones just right. So, when shooting log make sure you know what the recommended levels are for the curve you are using. I’m not saying you can’t over expose a bit, just be aware of what is correct and that level shifts of just a 7 or 8% may represent a whole stop of exposure change.

It’s only when you stop shooting with conventional gamma curves and start shooting linear that the latitude really starts to open up. Cameras like the Sony F5/F55 use linear raw recording that does not have a gamma curve. When you have no gamma curve then there is no highlight compression. So for example you could expose a face anywhere between in conventional terms between say 45% (the point where perhaps it becomes too noisy if you expose any darker) and 100% it will look just fine after grading because at no point does it become compressed. This is a massive latitude increase over a camera using a gamma curve. It gets even better if the camera is very low noise as you can afford to expose at an even lower level and bring it up in post. This is why raw is such a big deal. I find it much easier to work with and grade raw than log because raw just behaves nicely.

In Conclusion:

Dynamic range is the range the camera can see from the deepest darkest shadows to the brightest highlights in the same shot. Latitude is the range within the dynamic range where we can expose and still get a useable image.

A camera with lower noise will allow you to expose darker and bring your levels up in post, this gives an increase in under exposure range.

Most video cameras have a very limited over exposure latitude due to aggressive highlight compression. This is the opposite to a film camera.

Bigger dynamic range does not always mean greater latitude.

Cameras that shoot raw typically have a much greater latitude than a camera shooting with a gamma curve. For example an F5 shooting SLog2/3 has a much smaller exposure latitude than when shooting raw even though the dynamic range is the same in both cases.

 

Convergent Design Odyssey 7Q has landed.

The 7Q arrives.
The 7Q arrives.

This is not a review, just my first impressions. Let me start by saying I have a very good relationship with the team at Convergent Design, so maybe I’m biased. But then I’ve always liked their products and thats really just because that make really good, innovative gear at prices that shake up the competition.

I was going to hold off and writing about the 7Q until I could put together a more in depth review and a video to explain the key features and camera setup, I’m still going to do that, but I’m just so impressed by the 7Q that I wanted to share my first impressions.

First of all it is light for it’s size, it’s also low power. I’ve been running it off a single NP-F970 battery and I get at least a couple of hours from that small battery.

There are a few very small things that are not perhaps obvious in the setup and workflow, but those are very minor. For example when you want to switch from normal recording modes to recording raw from the FS700 you must first load the software from a storage memory area in the unit into the operating area and that takes around 3 minutes. Also before you can view your rushes on a computer you have to run a routine on the Odyssey that closes any open files and makes the clips visible to the computers software. This is part of the safe eject process and takes a few moments, you can’t just pull the SSD’s out and play the footage back, you must eject them correctly.

That screen, oh what a screen. Forget the recording capability for a moment, this is one of the best (if not the best) monitors I’ve ever had. Being able to turn all the key monitor functions like focus assist, zebras, LUT’s etc. on and off without having to go into a menu is wonderful and the display is crystal clear even outside on a sunny day (although a hood will be needed for the very best results). I van see the Odyssey becoming a “go to” monitor for many people, it’s very impressive.

The Raw workflow with FS700 is straight forward once you have your settings correct. VERY important to set the FS700 to SLog2 in a picture profile (the 7Q will flash a message to do this on the screen if you don’t) and even more important to make sure you are at 0db gain as changing the gain on the camera effects the raw recording level and if your not at 0db you will have reduced dynamic range. The 2K raw pictures look stunning, 95% of what I get with my F5/R5, there are some differences and I’ll cover those in the longer review and the differences are more to do with the camera than the 7Q. This is so much better ergonomically than an IFR5/R5 and I think that for FS700 owners in the future 4K compressed will make more sense than 4K raw. Way to go Convergent Design!

The copyright minefield, who owns the rights in a commissioned work?

This is not legal guidance, it is not a replacement for advice from a solicitor etc. It’s based on my experience as a cameraman that has been in these situations many times. Read it, understand it, but please take proper legal advice if you ever run into copyright issues!

First of all what is a commission? Well it’s basically anything where you have been asked to shoot or produce something (normally ahead of shooting) and then been paid for doing so.

In respect of who can do what with the footage there are 3 different things to take into account.

1: Copyright,

2: Rights Assignment,

3: Licensing.

Unless the contract between you and the commissioner includes an assignment of rights the copyright almost always remains with the originator. However the originator can through a contract assign the copyright in the original to a 3rd party, in doing so giving up all rights and claims to the original. Most TV commissions will involve an assignment of rights, but it must be written into the contract to be valid and everybody involved in the production should be under a similar contract, because for example if the cameraman does not assign his rights, he keeps them, so the production company cannot then re-assign them because they don’t own them, the cameraman still does.

In all cases you must consider who is the originator of the material. If you are a production company that would be the cameraman, not the production company unless the cameraman’s contract includes rights assignment. The production company would have the copyright in the edit or finished production but not necessarily in the original footage.

A copyright owner can sell a licence to use material that they own the copyright in and this is what you do if you shoot stock footage etc. You do still retain the copyright, you are just selling a licence to use the footage and you can sell multiple licences for the same footage. But you must be sure that you are the copyright owner before you do this.

Where it gets particularly grey, normally because people don’t bother to draw up proper contracts is over the rights in a commissioned work. If there is no contract then all rights remain with the originator by default. However when there is no contract, that can easily be challenged in a court of law, and generally the courts will award the commissioner with a licence to use the footage as they see fit, based on the fact that they paid to have the material created.  The court may also place restrictions on the originator as to what they can do with the footage, for example preventing it from being licensed to anyone other than the original commissioner. So it is vital that whenever you are paid to produce a work for someone that you have a contract that clearly sets out who owns what, otherwise, in reality, the moment you receive payment no matter how large or small, you are giving all your rights away (although it may take a court order for this to happen). Licensing footage you have shot while working on a commissioned project is a dangerous thing to do unless you have a contract that that specifically states that you are retaining your rights in the material.

For a commissioned project where I want to retain the right to use or later licence the footage to someone else I will normally include a statement in the contract that the rights in the material remain with me and that I am providing a licence for the commissioner to use the footage within their production for a specified period and geographical area. Depending on the client this will often be an indefinite period and include the entire known universe. Sometimes I have to give them a licence to do whatever they want with the footage, even sub licensing. But I do still try to retain my right to do what I wish with the footage, perhaps after a blackout period. Sometimes this just isn’t possible, many times I have to assign all my rights to the commissioner.

The main thing is to have a contract and a clear understanding of who owns what as more often than not if you’ve been paid and it goes to court, no contract = no right to use or licence, even if you do still own the copyright.

PMW-F5, F55 and FS700 workshop in Toronto Canada in association with Vistek.

Want to know more about the Sony PMW-F5, F55 or FS700. Do you want to learn which codec or gamma to use? How to expose S-log2 correctly or how to make the most of the amazing 4K raw capabilities? Why not join me for a full day seminar and workshop in Toronto, Canada on December the 13th. The workshop will be hosted by Vistek and full details will be provided in the coming days, so keep the date free in your diary and come learn about these cool cameras and the workflows that really makes them sing. I’ll post further details in due course.

Austin Texas, 3 days of workshops at Omega Broadcast.

I’m running 3 days of intensive workshops at Omega Broadcast in Austin Texas between December 7th and 10th. There are workshops for complete beginners through to experienced shooters covering all kinds of topics from getting in to professional video production through to advanced shooting techniques such as raw and log.

December 7th. From Hobbyist to Pro-Shooter, learn what it takes to turn your hobby into a profession.

You love shooting video for fun and now you are thinking of turning that into a business. What do you need to do, how do you start? Learn the techniques that help turn an amateur into a pro, how to shoot and prepare a show reel and how to pitch for work.

10am – 10.15: Introductions and course outline.

10.15 – 10.30: What makes a Pro and Pro? A brief discussion on what it is that makes you a professional and what you should consider before turning your hobby into a business.

10:30 – 10:45: Professional Approach: How to deal with the needs of a customer.

Coffee

11.00 – 11.30: Planning and preparation. Projects run smoother when properly planned. Simple guidelines for production planning.

11.30 – 12.30: Equipment choices: Buy or rent? What to buy. A look at the different types of cameras available today, what’s best for your business.

Lunch

13.30 – 14.30: Post Production: Pro’s and con’s of doing it all yourself, what software or equipment to get.

14.30 – 15.00: Copyright and Licences. What are your rights, what do you own. Buying and licensing music and stock footage for use in commercial productions.

Coffee

15.15 – 16.00: Showreels: How to put together a great showreel.

16.00 – 16.30: Selling yourself: The hard part, how to pitch for work and how to get your business off the ground.

16.30 -17.30: Budgets and Rates: How to calculate what to charge and what profit margins can you expect. Other ways to make money in between projects.

Monday, December 9th

Advanced Shooting Techniques for the Modern Filmmaker.

Discover how to spice up your video productions using clever but surprisingly easy shooting methods including time-lapse, slow motion, green screen and motion control. In the past these techniques were expensive and difficult. Today they are within almost everyone’s grasp. In this workshop you will learn how make the most of these exciting creative tools. We will spend time in the classroom and studio learning the principles behind these methods. In the evening we will put it all into practice with an evening shoot where we combine time-lapse, motion control and green screen to produce a cleverly composite scene.

Who is this workshop for: Anyone! You don’t need to have any previous film making experience to learn a great deal during this workshop. However some experience of basic video shooting or still photography is beneficial. We will provide a basic motion control rig and a selection of cameras, but if you have a DSLR or time-lapse capable camcorder you might want to bring that along.

This is going to be a very, very busy day with lots of exciting and interesting things to take a look at and learn about. I hope it will be a highly enjoyable day and the end shot we will walk away with should amaze your friends while still being something that you can do yourself with only basic tools.

10.00 – 10.30: Introductions and outline of the day ahead.

10.30 – 10.45: Understand how and when to use special effects shooting modes and when it might be better to do it in post.

10.45 – 11.15: How to set up a camera for a special effects shot. Picture profile and camera settings considerations.

11.15 – 11.30: Coffee.

11.30 – 12.45: Green screen – how to shoot and light perfect green screen, including shooting part of out final special effects composition.

12.45 – 13.30: Lunch.

13.30 – 14.45: Time-lapse – how to speed up time, different techniques with video cameras and DSLR’s.

14.45 – 15.00: Coffee.

15.00 – 16.00: Slow motion – how to shoot slow mo with a high speed camera. What lights can you use and how many will you need?

16.00 – 17.00: Motion Control – A basic introduction to motion control and how you can combine it with time-lapse and green-screen.

17.00 – 19.00: Break for you to have diner.

19.00 – 20.30: Putting it all together – combining time-lapse, green-screen and motion control into a very clever special effects shot.

Tuesday, December 10th

Modern Digital Cinematography Techniques.

This workshop is for videographers, digital imaging technicians and cinematographers that are interested in learning more about the latest camera technologies. Learn about shooting using Log gamma, raw and 4K. What are the differences between conventional gammas, log and raw and how does it affect the entire production. Discover how to work with LUT’s (look Up Tables) and “Looks”. Find out how to correctly use the ACES workflow (Academy Color Encoding System) to gain consistency between different cameras and standardize your workflow. Learn how to safely manage the large amounts of data that can be generated by a modern digital cinema camera and then how to grade the footage using DaVinci Resolve.

Who is this workshop for: Intermediate to advanced content creators!

10.00 – 10.30: Introductions and course outline.

10.30 – 11.00: What is gamma, why do we use it and what are it’s limitations. Standard gamma curves and the knee.

11.00 – 11.15: What’s the difference between latitude and dynamic range.

11.15 – 11.30: Coffee.

11.30 – 12.00: Advanced gamma curves, what do they do and why should I choose them?

12.00 – 12.30: Log gamma, what does it add, the pro’s and con’s and when and how do I use it. Correct log exposure.

12.30 – 13.00: Lunch.

13.00 – 13.30: Display referenced and scene referenced, what does this mean and why is it important in modern workflows?

13.30 – 13.45: Raw, what is raw and what are it’s benefits.

13.45 – 14.00: How to expose when shooting raw. Understanding EI gain and latitude control.

14.00 – 14.30: Look Up Tables. 1D and 3D Luts, how to use them, how to create them.

14.30 – 14.45: ACES, an introduction to the principles of the Academy ACES workflow.

14.45 – 15.00: Coffee.

15.00 – 15.45: DaVinci Resolve, an introduction to grading with DaVinci Resolve.

15.45 – 16.30: Hands on session putting it all together. Your chance to try different gammas or raw.

16.30 – 17.00: Q&A. Anything you didn’t quite get or want to know more about? Now’s your chance to ask.

 

Important note. The above is an outline of how the day should run. However depending on the group, the timing and running order may change to fit the skills and abilities of the group. Nothing will be missed, every effort will be made to tailor the day to fit the attendees needs rather than watching the clock and sticking to a rigid schedule. It is not unusual for the running order to change a little as students explore some of the topics covered in more depth and others perhaps a little less.

Please contact Omega to book a place. I look forward to working with you!

 

Advanced Media Dubai FS700 Workshop. 22nd 23rd November.

Just a reminder that I’m running a workshop in Dubai on the FS700 on the 22/23rd of November.  The outline agenda for each day is as follows:

FS700 4K Raw  Workshop:

•           Introduction to 4K, what is 4K and what benefits can it bring, even for HD production.

•           The difference between conventional shooting and using raw.

•           Introduction to NEX-FS700RH

•           FS700 4K Raw setup

•           Raw workflow considerations and overview.

•           Managing and monitoring high dynamic range images.

•           Using Picture Profiles and Look Up Tables for monitoring (LUT’s).

•           Practical: Correct S-Log2 exposure.

•           Practical: Pushing the camera to its limits, discovering how far you can push your exposure.

•           Practical: Shooting in 4K, re-framing in post-production.

•           The future of TV, Internet and web delivery and the importance of 4K acquisition.

•           Introduction to PXW-Z100

•           Q&A.

For more information please contact Advanced Media in Dubai: http://www.amt.tv/event/FS700-Workshop/

Cinematographer and film maker Alister Chapman's Personal Website