Customize Consent Preferences

We use cookies to help you navigate efficiently and perform certain functions. You will find detailed information about all cookies under each consent category below.

The cookies that are categorized as "Necessary" are stored on your browser as they are essential for enabling the basic functionalities of the site. ... 

Always Active

Necessary cookies are required to enable the basic features of this site, such as providing secure log-in or adjusting your consent preferences. These cookies do not store any personally identifiable data.

No cookies to display.

Functional cookies help perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collecting feedback, and other third-party features.

No cookies to display.

Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics such as the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.

No cookies to display.

Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.

No cookies to display.

Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with customized advertisements based on the pages you visited previously and to analyze the effectiveness of the ad campaigns.

No cookies to display.

Dynatex BFG Grenades. How to service them.

I have a couple of the new style Dynatex blank firing grenades (BFG’s). One of them started to go off almost as soon as the pin was pulled rather than after the normal 5 second delay. So I decided to take it apart to see what was going on. Sorry, no pictures at the moment, but next time I take one apart I’ll get some pics.

First, how to get in to them. The metal top of the grenade is press fitted into the plastic body. To remove the top, warm the upper half of the grenade with a very hot hair dryer for a few minutes or place the grenade in a warm oven (100c). Once the plastic is warm it is a lot more flexible.

Remove the cap where you stick the blank and instead of a blank inset a long bolt so that the shaft of the bolt passes through the hole in the cap. Screw the blank housing back into the top of the grenade and use the protruding long bolt shaft to lever out the entire top of the grenade from the warmed up plastic shell. You will only be able to get the top off if the plastic shell is hot, if it’s cold it won’t come out and you risk damaging the grenade.

Once the top is off the internal mechanism is very simple. The issue with mine was dirt under the upper (smaller) O-ring. This O-Ring acts as a one way valve to help you prime the grenade, any dirt under it will let air back through in effect keeping the valve open and the grenade will fire prematurely.

I recommend removing and cleaning both O-rings and then apply a very small amount of silicone grease to them. You only want a very, very small amount of grease as any excess grease will attract dirt and dust and could lead to more problems in the future.

You will also find a small allen head grub screw in the nylon shuttle. You can use this screw to adjust the timing of your grenade. Screw it in (clockwise) to increase the delay and turn it anti-clockwise to decrease the delay.

Reassemble the grenade by again warming up the plastic body and gently tap the top back into the body. If the body is warm enough it doesn’t require much effort to get the top back in.

For replacement pins you can buy split pins from any good car spares store and use a key ring ring for the pull ring.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Cinematographer and film maker Alister Chapman's Personal Website